Godox TT350F 2.4G HSS 1/8000s TTL GN36 Camera Flash Speedlite for Fuji X-Pro2 X-T20 X-T2 X-Prol X-T10 X-El X-A3 X100T etc Digital Camera

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Any flash settings for the slave units on the master flash in TTL mode will be automatically sent to the slave units. So the only thing you need to do is to set the master unit for each slave group without any operation for the slave units at all during the shooting. Press < MODE> Mode Selection Button and three flash modes will display on the LCD panel one by one with each pressing. if you are away from home, you got to bring a bunch of AAs and a charger and have the pain of swapping out AA batteries on the go. Li-Ion batteries are more compact, easier to install/remove, and you can buy a really compact USB charger for these batteries. 1000 full power shots on two Li-Ion batteries vs. 1000 shots with 10x AA NiMH batteries. In M manual flash mode, press the < SLAVE> button so that this flash can function as an optic S1 secondary flash with optic sensor. With this function, the flash will fire synchronously when the main flash fires, the same effect as that by the use of radio triggers. This helps create multiple lighting effects. Optical S2 Secondary Unit Setting Any stand will do, even the cheap Photo-R stands . I find Neewer to be great value for money, although in the studio I prefer using C-Stands even with speedlights. Master and Slave

Information displayed includes current mode, power, groups, channels, zoom, and under/over exposure when in TTL mode. It is easy to see what your settings are at a glance. Godox lists 0.1-2.2 seconds recycle for this unit, but in my tests, this isn’t quite accurate. From the moment of pushing the fire button to the moment the ready light came on was somewhere between 3 and 4 seconds for me. I’m using Eneloop Pro NiMH batteries, which have reduced recycle times in every other flash I have used. Using standard alkaline batteries increased the recycle time to nearly 6 seconds. But, considering there are only two AA batteries recycling the flash, this is still respectable. Not great if you’re in a pit of journalists, but quite usable for a portrait session.I did encounter some issues with the Godox TT350F while using it during a corporate event. There were a few times when the flash wouldn’t trigger for two or three shots. Plenty of time had passed during each shot for the flash to recycle so I’m not entirely sure what was going on to be honest. Granted this has only been when using it remotely, but it’s still unacceptable. In terms of battery life I have managed to squeeze about 250 images out of a set of good quality AA batteries. Flashes aren’t always the easiest pieces of equipment to use. If you buy this as your first flash, it will take some getting used to. The menu system is really quite terrible so I would highly recommend you familiarize yourself with the actions of all the buttons, and how to navigate the painfully abbreviated menus. I’ve used Godox branded lights for some time so I was at least able to fumble my way through the settings, but still, this is the most unfriendly flash I’ve used in terms of menu navigation. This is partly due to the small screen size and the amount of information displayed on it. It can at times look like a jumbled mess.

Godox TT685F (TTL, HSS and wireless remote): This well-designed flash unit is on par with the best from the likes of Canon and Nikon. It takes 4 AA batteries and is a direct competitor to the Fujifilm EF-500. The TT685F is compatible with the complete Godox 2.4GHz system that includes the fabulous AD-200 and AD-600 units, among others. The room is completely dark at the time of taking the photo, white ceiling is 3m high and room dimensions are 9m x 5.5m although not completely square. Apologies for the state of the room but my wife is away and I’m with 2 kids so this is about as clean as it stays with one parent. Is there a workaround for using HSS with X-E2?? (Like for Nissin flashes, their HSS mode seem to work with X-E2.) I usually carry the tt385 with me, it's smaller and lighter. But I don't use it to light the "scene", I mostly use it to open the shadows.Removing one of the lights and putting it on a stand behind our subject gives a good cross-light setup. Should you get a TT350? As with any on-camera flash aimed directly at the subject, the light is hard and not particularly flattering. During stroboscopic flash, the shutter remains open until the firing stops. Use the formula below to calculate the shutter speed and set it with the camera.

Here’s a shot at 1/2000sec and f/1.4, ISO400 with HSS on. (You’ll find bumping the ISO helps save battery life, which is why I’m using ISO400 here). Two lights That your TT350-F is not in S1/S2 modes (these are optical slave modes, and tell the flash to ignore the hotshoe, and "listen" to the sensor panel instead) FEB. : ±3 stops in 1/3 stop increments (Manual FEC.) Sync mode: High-speed sync (up to 1/8000 seconds), first-curtain sync, and second-curtain sync Anybody have any recommendations of one versus the other? Looks like the V350 F it’s more expensive and weighs about 50 g more because it has the rechargeable lithium battery, but has a faster recycle time. I’m wondering if that fast or recycle time and longer charge justifies the extra cost and extra weight of the V350 F . I’m wondering if 290 g versus 240 g will impact my desire to take it on a vacation. Change the wireless channels and wireless ID to avoid interference for it can only be triggered after the wireless IDs and channels of the master unit and the slave unit are set to the same.

Part 2: Larger flash systems capable of HSS or High-Sync with Fujifilm cameras

Please turn on the "close distance wireless mode" on the flash trigger ( XPro series: Set the C.Fn-DIST to 0-30m. It works with my TT350F and X-PRO2. All the photos including the exif of 1/500, 1/1000, 1/2000, 1/4000 and 1/8000 @ https://www.sritch.com/fuji/fujifilm-xpro2-hss-ttl.html